DEVELOPMENT OF BULKY SILK YARN IN WEB SILK REELING PROCESS
Silk is a unique material and available in the filament form for production of fabrics. The handlooms are used for the production of silk sarees, which consumes about 85% of silk produced in the country. Generally the raw silk is pled and used as warp and weft. In this context, it was thought to impart bulkiness in raw silk using differential rotary traverse mechanism in silk reeling process. CSTRI, CSB, Bengaluru has developed a concept of web silk reeling in silk reeling machine to produce bulky raw silk, which can be used as weft for the production of sarees. Generally the cocoon filaments are assembled in reeling machine towards the vertical axis and wound on to the reels to produce raw silk. It was thought to assemble the cocoon filaments parallel to the axis using differential rotary traverse mechanism, so that resultant raw silk will have bulky structure. The concept was termed as web silk reeling The yarn thus produced was found have significant influence on reeling characteristics viz., diameter (bulkiness) and productivity and quality characteristics viz., average size, size deviation and tenacity of bulky raw silk. The bulkiness of yarn produced using this machine was three times bulkier than the yarn produced form same number of cocoons in regular reeling machine. The bulky raw silk thus produced was used for the production of fabric and the characteristics studied. The bulky raw silk fabrics has shown better properties in terms of tensile and tear strength, crimp percentgae, abrasion resistance and drape co-efficient. Thus the bulky raw silk can be exploited in the development of new varieties of fabrics for both export and domestic markets.
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