DEVELOPMENT OF NEW YARN (VOID SILK) IN REELING MACHINE AND ITS CHARACTERIZATION
Keywords:Void raw silk, PVA yarn, Cocoons, Reel speed, Croissure length, Yarn thickness, Bivoltine warp.
In order to impart bulkiness in the raw silk, it was thought to develop raw silk during the process of reeling along with PAV yarns and after weaving the PVA component would be dissolved so as to create void in the raw silk and hence improve the fabric performance. CSTRI has developed a multiend reeling machine, in which PVA yarns are kept in a cabinet below the reeling basin and passed through the pipe fitted in reeling basin, so that PVA yarns does not come in contact with water, as PVA yarns are water soluble. The developed reeling machine is capable of producing about 1.5 Kg of silk per day per basin. CSTRI has standardized the process parameters for the production of new yarn and it was observed that 30 cocoons per end with 6 mm croissure length, 50°C basin temperature and reel speed of 100 m/min is ideal for the production void raw silk on void silk reeling machine. In order to compare the yarn characteristics of raw silk and new yarn (void silk), raw silk was produced with 10. 20 & 30 cocoons per end and void raw silk were produced with 10, 20 & 30 cocoons per end with Indian PVA yarns. These yarns have been characterized for various characteristics viz., denier, tenacity, elongation, microscopic cross section and longitudinal and wicking characteristics. It could be observed that significant difference exists among the characteristics studied between raw silk and void silk yarns. Using these yarns as weft and organzine bivoltine silk warp, fabrics have been developed on power loom and assessed for various fabric characteristics viz., Fabric mass, fabric thickness, EPI, PPI, Warp and weft count, Cover factor, crimp warp / weft, twist warp / weft, tensile strength viz., breaking load and elongation warp / weft, crease recovery, flexural rigidity, abrasion resistance, air permeability, drape coefficient and bursting strength. Based on the analysis, it was found that the fabric characteristics of void silk fabrics were found to be superior in terms of crimp, crease recovery, elongation, air permeability and drape characteristics. The ANOVA results indicate that it could be seen that all the characteristics of raw silk and void raw silk were found be significantly different at 1% level. Using the Z-score analysis, it could be found that void raw silk fabrics produced with 30 cocoons have scored more thus indicating that it is better fabric in all fabric characteristics followed by void silk fabric produced with 20 cocoons. The unique appearance developed on the surface on the fabrics due to removal of PVA yarn earlier introduced in yarn production, has created curiosity among the consumers and exporters.
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